Why chlorine dissipates

You don't need to get the CSI positive. Anything between You usually need to go much further than that to have significant effects. But when using CSI to figure out what happens when you raise or lower the PH intentionally for short periods of time you can allow the CSI to range much further. Thanks man.

I'll leave ya alone now. I hit it with oz of calhypo last night, which should have brought it up to about 30 ppm FC in my 14, Gal pool. This morning, the FC is at Enjoying this content? Support TFP with a donation. Give Support. This evening you should test the FC and bring it back up to shock level. Then, about an hour after you add the chlorine, measure the FC level again and then yet again in the morning. There are two possibilities.

Either the Cal-hypo is not having the effect you intend or you have something consuming chlorine. The steps above will tell you which one is happening. If the FC test tonight reads low than the cal-hypo is either spoiled or a lower percentage than you thing or the pool is larger than you think. If the FC test tonight shows FC where you expect it to be then there is something consuming chlorine and you need to keep the pool at shock level till whatever it is goes away. It is rare, but quite possible, for something to be consuming chlorine even when the water is completely clear.

Not trying be dense or argumentative here, just trying to follow your train of thought and learn something. I thought that no CC indicated no substantial activity regarding the FC? Also took detailed depth and spa measurements which led me to adjust my volume to from the estimated earlier. Are you saying that, with a CYA of 90 ppm, it's not normal for 30 ppm FC to drop to roughly half that level overnight?

Even if the filter is left on overnight? The spillover spa keeps the water moving pretty well The lack of CC doesn't really tell you anything. Depending on the chlorine level and the amount of sunlight and what particular thing the chlorine is breaking down there may or may not be any CC even when there is something the chlorine is fighting.

Algae isn't the only candidate, particularly if you just opened the pool for the spring. If there is CC then that tells you something, but the lack of CC isn't really an indicator. Cal-hypo can break down if it is stored incorrectly. This could have happened at the pool store or between the manufacturer and the pool store. Both of these things are fairly unlikely, but they do happen.

Pool volumes are always estimates. Even if you had an exact number from the builder, the pool isn't always filled to the same level so the actual amount of water varies. I wouldn't expect an error in the pool volume nearly as large as it would take to account for your measurements, but it might be contributing.

If you had a GPM frothing waterfall there would be some drop, but that doesn't sound like what you describe having. The CYA measurement might be wrong, but if no sunlight was involved that doesn't make any difference.

Now if algae, or something else that is consuming chlorine, is involved, then the CYA level make a large difference.

With zero CYA and a massive algae bloom the chlorine would all be gone in under an hour. With clear water it presumably isn't algae, but there are other things, several of which you can't see, that can consume chlorine in a similar way and which you want to get rid of before you swim urea, ammonia, etc.

JasonLion said:. Click to expand Lots of great info to chew on. I'll definitely check the water this evening, then shock, then recheck after an hour. I'll double check the CYA also to make sure it's accurate as well. There has been a ton of pollen released in the last 2 weeks around here. I didn't think about how the organic matter in the sand would still consume FC, so I'm glad you mentioned that.

I thought I was fine with just the backflush before the shock cycle. I'll backflush it tonight before I start the process. BTW- my sandfilter gauge read 34 psi before I backflushed 2 days ago, and read 22 psi afterwards. Still reads about psi. Is that kinda high for backpressure? The question is what the psi reading was when the system was new and the filter was clean. If it was 22 psi back then then everything is fine. What pressure you have with a clean filter depends on the size of the pump, size of the pipe, how the plumbing runs, solar, in floor cleaners, etc.

The "normal" range is anything from 2 psi to 40 psi depending on those things. Guess I'll never know about the original backpressure, seems to be fine though. Consistently drops to the same psi after a backflush, and it's well below the 50 psi rating of the sand filter. I had 10 ppm FC this evening before I backflushed and re-shocked. I added 94 oz of Calhypo in an effort to bring it back up to 30 FC. An hour later, I had CalHypo was pre-dissolved mostly in 5 gal buckets, 4 doses, each poured partially thru the skimmers and then the remainder washed out and thrown into different areas of the pool, including the spa.

I'm pretty sure it was well dispersed. Thing is, as I drove home, I figured out that I had made another error in calculating my pool's volume. It's actually larger than 14, gallons. So, the apparent lack of FC is most likely due to this error. I will remeasure in the morning. I have a slope on both sides of my pool, and then it levels off for a stretch in the middle.

So, I can't just take the deepest and shallowest and divide by 2. The vast majority of water filtration systems work by using a process known as reverse osmosis , which uses a permeable membrane to get rid of any particles, ions, or impurities in the water.

When water passes through the membrane, the chlorine and contaminants that are in the water will be left behind. While many reverse osmosis systems are designed to be used for industrial purposes, there are also some systems that can be installed in the home.

This particular method of removing chlorine is ideal because of how effective it is. Along with automatic operation, the water is softened following the completion of the filtration. The only issue is that the system will need to be installed, which can be complicated. The process takes only seconds to complete. Once water passes through the membrane, it will no longer contain chlorine or harmful contaminants.

The third and final option for removing chlorine from water is chemical neutralization , which involves adding more chemicals to the water in order to get rid of any chlorine. Likely the best chemical to use for chemical neutralization is potassium metabisulfite, which comes in the form of small tablets. Once the tablet dissolves in the water, it will effectively neutralize the chlorine before evaporating.

This technique is effective at eradicating chloramine and chlorine. A single tablet of potassium metabisulfite can get rid of chlorine in 20 gallons of water, which means that the process is relatively inexpensive.

The process also works quickly and should be able to get rid of chlorine in a matter of minutes. Once placed in the water, chlorine is able to act as a disinfectant, which results in viruses, bacteria, and protozoans being removed from the water.

As such, the water will be effectively purified and safe for you to drink. While the EPA mandates that drinking water should never consist of more than four milligrams per liter of chlorine , you can further protect your family and yourself by measuring the drinking water to test for certain chlorine amounts. By measuring the levels of chlorine in your drinking water, you can be certain that chlorine levels are never too high. Likely the top sensors for this are oxidation reduction potential sensors , which can provide you with accurate readings and tell you how much chlorine is currently in your drinking water.

Pool Water — The rainwater, either falling directly or through run-offs, can make the pool acid level shoot up. In short, a messed-up water pool chemistry. Aside from that, the rainwater may contain dirt and bacteria that will pollute the pool. Imagine how complex these will be for chlorine — unbalanced, contaminated water. The chlorine will become very active on water with a low level of pH, causing them to get consumed up immediately.

Uses and Users — Regular use of pool and users can also be significant factors why a pool loses chlorine.

As mentioned earlier, when a human discharges liquid, they add up as water pollutants. It triggers the chlorine to sanitize sweat, pee, and body oils. Furthermore, the human skin tissue, hair, along with many other things that a person could bring into the water will serve as an enemy to the chlorine. If the swimming pool is under regular usage, then there is a need to increase the amount of chlorine, which should be about parts per million.

Moreover, advising the users to wear proper swimming attire and taking showers before hitting the pool will help a lot. All these and more contribute to the cause of pool chlorine loss, and explaining them can help better understand how to avoid them. There may be no way to stop rainfall and high temperatures, but there are ways to minimize their effect on chlorine. The next part of this article will guide you on how to limit or have control over chlorine loss.

As you may remember, the top cause of pool chlorine loss is highly-contaminated water. As soon as the chlorine dive into the water, it will start to disinfect. According to roboticpoolcleanerscompared. Other than regular maintenance and cleaning, there are other methods to prevent chlorine loss. Since chlorine dissipates in the presence of the UV rays, many pool experts suggest the use of a pool cover.

It offers a lot of benefits to a swimming pool, although it also has some drawbacks. To give a few:. Maintaining a pool is an endless cycle, yet the result is rewarding.

Pool sanitation, water testing, equipment inspection, and such can help improve the quality of water if, and only if, you do it frequently. It takes a lot to get a full grasp of what pool needs. Uncovering its demand for chlorine may include learning the proper ways to maintain it, as well as understanding the language of pool chemistry. As long as you do the basic requirement of sanitizing and follow the guidelines, it is possible to achieve chemically balanced yet safe water.

Pool owners have these feeling of satisfaction whenever they achieve well-balanced water.